Feats of engineering

So after some lovely days of driving in France, with sunny weather and glorious views, I decided that I would modify my route and head for the coast sooner, to take advantage of the lovely sun. I was also a lot more confident at this point, so decided to use the motorways for the first time as well. I hadn’t been checking the weather forecast, so wasn’t really aware how bad things had been, and started driving only to hit what I think was the tail end of Storm Babet!

Suffice to say it was a bit of a challenging experience, as once I had got onto the motorway the weather got really bad, and visibility was very low. I just followed a lorry, as at least I could see that, and pushed on. I was feeling very proud of myself for coping with all of this, and the weather was starting to clear as we got nearer the coast, when out of the gloom arose this, pictures from Google.

I had checked the route on Google maps, but hadn’t realised that it was going to involve crossing France’s longest bridge, a wonderful feat of engineering at St Nazaire. I’m sure the views would have been stunning if I could have seen anything, I was just concentrating on hanging on to the wheel and getting Katy across as it was very windy! It is just as steep as it looks from that second photo.

Once safely across I headed to the new park up that I had found on the coast, only to find it completely deserted. As it was down a very small lane, and had a barrier, I decided to look for something else close by, and thanks to the lovely Park4Nite app found a free aire next to the Tourist Office at Bourgneuf-en-Retz.

It may not look like very much, but it had a toilet, and it was a lovely safe spot to spend the night. I was very relieved to get here, and had just made myself a cup of tea when a very kind French woman came over, and asked my if I wanted a hot drink and to sit in her van. She had seen me arrive, and as I was only in my little Katy, was concerned that I wouldn’t have anywhere to sit or a hot drink.

We had a little chat about the weather, and I assured her that I was fine, She too had been driving earlier that day, and had stopped as it was so bad. She then decided to carry on her journey, as the weather had started to clear up a bit, so left the aire after we had talked. It was so kind of her to check that I was ok, that is the thing I love most about travelling and van life, the kindness of strangers. It had not been the most fun of days, but I ended it very happy.

I was booked into a campsite at nearby Surgeres for the following two nights. I had planned a rest stop here as I had wanted to visit the area around La Rochelle for a long time. I have flown over this area many times and loved the look of the coastline.

Unfortunately there was still some bad weather the following day. I did get over to the Isle de Re, driving on this marvellous bridge, thankfully the views were brilliant as it was sunny at that point.

I spent a happy hour visiting the old ruined abbey there, and admiring the views across the bay.

As the weather was then getting worse I head for my campsite and actually did manage to pitch the tent before it got really wet! The campsite was lovely, with a mix of lodges and tents, as well as sheltered pitches with access to bbq areas and seating. The stay cost me £15 a night, and it was great to have access to showers and toilets, luxury.

I had chosen this campsite as it was next to the town castle and an amazing church. I was lucky the next day as the weather cleared up for a couple of hours so I went for a walk. The castle dominated the little town, it was originally built by the Duke of Aquitaine for defence, as you can see from the walls and the main gate. It was later more residential and was modified to include a very grand 17th century gateway. It is now the town hall.

The church was one of the most beautiful I have seen, again an amazing feat of engineering and craftmanship, especially given the era that it was built in. The stonework on the main façade was absolutely stunning.

Sadly it was closed, so I can only imagine how beautiful it was inside. Both church and castle date from the 12th century. As with much of this part of France it was briefly under English rule, as the lands were owned by Eleanor of Aquitaine, who married Henry 2nd of England.

The town was very pretty and I had a little wander around some of the lovely buildings before heading back through the park, where there was a poetry trail. I love this little hand door knocker, I saw many of these on my travels.

A really lovely couple of days, despite the less than auspicious start. Thankfully I didn’t encounter quite that much rain after that, though the experience did give me a lot of confidence in my driving. I am in the process of planning the route back through France for April, and my camping adventures this summer, and am so looking forward to travelling through France again, such a beautiful country.

In my next post I will share with you the last few gorgeous park ups in France. I had some really stunning places to stay and absolutely loved the travelling. Until then have fun, take care, stay safe and thanks for visiting.

Moments in history

My second stop in France was at the little town of St Valery sur Somme. I had already planned to stop at the aire there, which was a paid for one that had very good reviews, as it was only a short drive from Wissant. This was my route, avoiding toll roads and motorways.

I had a quick lunch stop en route, at the Plage du Ploques (Seals). There weren’t any there but it was a gorgeous place for a picnic.

I was so glad that I did visit St Valery as the town was absolutely gorgeous, and gave me an unexpected glimpse into a period of history that I don’t know much about. It always interests me how easily things can change, and what would have happened if certain events had never take place, and this little town certainly played a major part in England’s history. More about that in a bit.

The aire cost me 12 euros for the night, and was a large, nicely laid out area, accomodating about 100 vans, with trees between each parking zone. There were some facilities such as electric in some areas, bins, water and waste disposal, and access was controlled by a barrier.

You paid on the way out, and unfortunately the barrier came down too quickly as I was coming from the payment machine, so I was helped by a very kind French council worker who was there with the bin men, who opened the barrier for me. Barrier issues were to become a bit of a feature of the next few days and I was constantly helped by very kind French campers!

It was only a short walk into the very pretty town, down some tiny cobbled streets with very cute cottages. I loved all the shutters, and you will see lots of pictures like this in the coming posts!

The town is on the banks of the river, and as such was an important port. There were lots of people out enjoying the beautiful weather, and taking boat trips. Such stunning skies for October 15th.

The town houses were beautiful, so many beautiful details in stonework and balconies. And of course some all important lovely doors!

I went for a little wander and found an information board that told me that this place was where William the Conqueror took shelter after a storm destroyed his fleet, while he was on his way to invade England. He managed to get the fleet repaired, and took the relics of St Valery from the abbey in a procession to ensure a favourable outcome for his second attempt.

The rest as they say, is history, and he was crowned King of England on Christmas Day 1066. How things might have been different if this trip had failed, or the saint’s blessing had not worked. Thus for the next few hundred years the town was involved in many battles between the French and English, and changed hands several times. Joan of Arc was also imprisoned there, before being taken to Rouen.

I walked from the port area along the river and up to the old medieval part of the town, the gate and some of the walls are still there. The church has a very unusual checkerboard design in the stonework.

The church was beautiful inside, lots of gorgeous windows and models of ships, as the place has always been heavily connected to shipping.

There was some lovely needlework as well, these beautiful stitcheries near the altar were gorgeous.

There was also a recreation of the Bayeux Tapestry above the doors, this commemorates the story of the invasion, and William’s battle with Harold at Hastings.

A beautiful place, and such a great introduction to travelling through France, the countryside was so lovely, and the roads so quiet. Absolutely loved it.

I hope you have all had a good Christmas if you celebrate. We had a very quiet but enjoyable time. Unfortunately I got a horrible cold just before it, which has now turned into a persistent cough, so I am having a very quiet few days in, with lots of duvet and fleece time, and hot water bottles. I am not too sad as it gives me lots of excuse to sit and write and stitch.

We will be busy again next week, with more trips out planned for my very last week here before I return to the UK. It has gone so fast. I will try and get back for another post before I leave, but if not will next be writing from the UK. See you all as soon as I can. In the meantime, have fun, take care, stay safe and thanks for visiting.

So close I could almost touch it!

My final campsite was just outside Folkestone, on the edge of the cliffs, with beautiful views of the white cliffs, not the really famous ones, just some smaller ones. It was a fantastic location, you could hear the waves from the campsite, and the views were stunning.

The access road was a little steep and narrow, but once I got used to it that was fine. I have no idea how people get their large motorhomes down places like this, so glad that Katy is tiny!

This is where I started to get really excited, especially when on a couple of days it was so clear that I could see France. I was watching the ferries go over every day, and counting down the days until I left.

Aside from the lovely castles I did visit quite a few other places in Kent and I really loved the beaches. From the previous Canterbury campsite I had driven to the coast near Whitstable as I had seen this beach Botany Bay, on Google Maps.

It was stunning, the erosion has left these amazing chalk pillars and they looked wonderful against the blue sky and sea. I had a brilliant afternoon at this beach, even having a little paddle as it was that warm.

I also went to the official site of the White Cliffs of Dover, another Trust property. There is an excellent café and interpretation centre, as well as three second hand bookshops! By that point I had emptied one of my footwell storage boxes in the van, so was able to bring back lots of books to Spain, so I bought 6 from their bookshops.

It was a lovely walk along the cliff path, to the particular section of the cliffs that are the iconic White Cliffs. The whole of this stretch of coastline is beautiful and I will return at some point to go further west as I know there are some other amazing places to visit. For now it was a little picnic, watching the ferries leave for France.

I had opted for the tunnel, as it was faster. The advantage of only having a little van is that it is cheap to take her on the tunnel. I was so excited about the whole thing and it was so simple, I actually got there in time for the previous shuttle so from arrival to being in France was about an hour. Here is me being very excited waiting to set off.

A bumpy 35 minute ride later and we were in France. I had opted for an aire just 30 minutes down the coast at Wissant, a little village that has been used often as a embarkation point for England.

Most of the aires that I used I found through the Park4Nite site and app so here is the link for this one if anyone is interested. I parked up, and went for a wander, and when I came back was talking to my neighbours, who had recognised Katy from one of the campervan groups I am in on Facebook!

This was a free aire with some services, and only a short walk to the village. I celebrated my arrival with a glass of wine next to the beach, and enjoyed watching the ferries from the other side. I could also see the White Cliffs from here, you can’t tell from the photo but they were very clear.

In terms of the driving I can honestly say that the change to driving on the right came really naturally. I think because I do spend a lot of time in Spain cycling, and navigating for family I am very used to it.

As many people told me, French and Spanish roads are brilliant to drive on, there is much less traffic, and I had some beautiful routes, especially in Normandy. I wish I had a dash cam to show you all of the beautiful places that I drove through, as there was some stunning scenery.

I will be back soon to show you the adventures of day two in France, it is still lovely and sunny here so I went for another cycle ride earlier, with views of my beloved mountains. Whatever you are doing have fun, take care, stay safe, and thanks for visiting.

Back in the land of sun and palm trees!

I have arrived back in La Marina after my epic adventures. I have had an excellent time in France and Spain, it took two and half weeks to get here, and there were many brilliant stops along the way. I am not quite sure how many miles it was, but possibly about 1800. As everyone who had been previously advised me, driving in Europe is very straightforward, and in most cases was an absolute pleasure. We won’t talk about the first trip on French motorways, where I inadvertently caught the tail end of Storm Babet !

This is screen shot of my route. I am so grateful to have Google maps, as although I had a route planned and stops identified, I did change a lot of them, so it was invaluable for the planning on the road as well.

I will do more detailed posts about the last couple of weeks, as well as finish off telling you all about the adventures in Norfolk, Suffolk and Kent. I have seen, to paraphrase Carter on his discovery of Tutankhamen’s tomb, ‘many wonderful things’, and am so lucky to have done this journey. It really was a trip of a lifetime.

Katy is very happy here as well, she had to have a couple of rest days as the last day of driving was about five and a half hours, but she is enjoying the early morning sunsets from her park up across from the house.

I have had lots of house and van sorting to do as well, the usual replanting all of the pots on the terrace and re-establishing dominance of the house over the cockroaches 🙂 We have had a couple of little trips out though, one to the beach for lunch and today I went to the mountains nearest our house. I had promised myself that my first bigger trip would be to get closer to these lovely mountains that I see every day, and always cycle towards.

So this afternoon I went to the Palmeral, in the town of Orihuela, which is at the foot of the mountains, and spent a lovely hour having a picnic and a wander around, It is 25 degrees here still, and the sky was beautiful. I do love the contrast of the palms and the clouds.

I have lots more trips planned, again Google maps has been brilliant for that and these green pins are the places I am planning to drive to over the next couple of months.

I am looking forward to catching up with all my friends here as well, and generally enjoying a slighter quieter pace of life than the last four months. I have to say that having a bed, and a double one at that, and your own bathroom, is a luxury much appreciated after 4 months living in Katy 😉

I will return as soon as possible. Meanwhile have fun, take care, stay safe and thanks for visiting.

Lincolnshire skies

After the Slumber on the Humber festival I went to stay at Mablethorpe for 10 days. I had a really lovely relaxing time here on the coast and was joined for the weekend by my friend Sharon, from Marsden. She is thinking of buying a campervan so had rented one for the week to get an idea of what type she would like.

The weather was really good and I spent most of the time along the coast, and looking at the clouds. Lincolnshire is very flat and the campsite was next to fields, so apart from the windmills in the distance, all you could see was sky and there were some brilliant sunsets.

I went for a few walks to local beach nature reserves, there are lots of salt marsh reserves here and there were amazing clouds over the beaches.

I particularly love this last picture where it looks like there is a fight between the good and bad clouds with the evil.darkness about the envelop the fluffy white one.

We loved the patterns that the water made flowing through the sand and found shells that had worn away to form beautiful patterns of holes.

We did do a little bit of National Trust visiting, to Gunby Hall, which had the most gorgeous gardens and orchard.

The family that lived in the house in the Victorian era had lots of links with the famous writers artists and thinkers of the era. One of the daughters, Emily Massingberd founded The Pioneer Club in 1892 to support women’s suffrage.

Another daughter, Sybil, was friends with Gertrude Bell, the traveller and Middle Eastern specialist who I have blogged about before.

I really enjoy learning about links between all of these inspirational women. It sets all of their lives into context.

We had a lovely time and Sharon enjoyed her cute little campervan. Hopefully she can find one of her own and we can have more adventures together.

I am very much enjoying my time here in Norfolk, after a busy weekend at the Steampunk Festival in Lincoln after my stay in Mablethorpe and then a week at Ellen’s decorating.

A whole lotta love …. for Katy Kangoo

I have just been to my very first vanlife festival, Slumber on the Humber. This is a new festival for this year, with a focus on mental health and raising money for Mind.

It has been an absolutely amazing experience, in every respect. The festival was only a small one, but brilliantly organised with music from local artists on two stages all weekend, a market and an excellent wellness tent, where I took part in a drumming session which was brilliant.

It was great to meet up with some of the women from my campervan Facebook groups, who I have previously met at Upton and App Fest. I also met so many other wonderful people.

I had applied to be in the show field as I wanted to let people know what you can do with a small van and an even smaller budget. I was a bit nervous when I turned up on Thursday, especially as there were some really amazing vans there.

There were only two microcampers there, myself and a Fiat Doblo, named the Blue Midget.

I was parked in between a jeep in camouflage and a very large overland truck so there couldn’t have been more of a contrast between the vans. I said to the owner of the jeep that it looked like he was Action Man and I was Barbie.

Some of the people were full time in their vans and many others weekend users. Like many van owners there were lots that had been people’s lockdown projects, in itself a great boost to their mental health during that time, to have a positive focus that they are now really enjoying.

I also met Martha and the Van Dwellers, who travel with their two dogs and a cat. They have a stunning zebra decorated van.

I was really excited to be near Florry The Lorry. I have been following Katherine and Chris for a while on Facebook and was so keen to see the lorry in real life. It is an incredible home, and even has a bath! Go and look at their pictures on Facebook.

They were so welcoming and invited me to join them around their campfire which was really nice, as I got to know them and my neighbour Paul, in the truck. He has a You Tube channel called Off Grid Nomad, which I’m looking forward to watching.

There were also a family, four girls and their parents who converted an old bus into a home and moved in last October. Their aim is to save on rent and eventually be able to buy some land for a tiny house build. I love that van life can enable people to do that. They have a Facebook and YouTube called, ‘Six in a bus’, if you want to follow them.

Everyone was so nice about Katy and I know that I have inspired a few other women to kit out their own vans as well. People were very complimentary about the needlework, and the use of space. It was so lovely to meet so many people who understand how I feel about having a van and being able to travel.

There were lots of large lorries there as well. One of my favourites was the one with a tailgate that turns into a garden with astro turf and table and chairs. The red van is being developed by a young couple into a home complete with a garage for a motorbike.

I know that vanlife won’t be the answer to everyone’s housing issues, or mental health concerns, but there is no doubt that it has given a lot of people somewhere to live, a way to retire early, something to work on, a way to travel and that can’t be a bad thing can it?

At my first music festival with Jacky about 6 years ago I was listening to a song by an artist called Doozer McDooze. It was called, ‘ I don’t wanna go home, I wanna stay like this forever ‘. It was about that feeling when you have been at a festival and are so happy, you really don’t want to have to pack up go home and go back to work on Monday.

The lovely thing is that I don’t, I just get to move on to another great location. I am now a few miles down the coast in Lincolnshire, at Mablethorpe. I am looking forward to some beach walks and possibly seeing some seals, in the local sanctuary as it is the wrong time of year for them to be here in the wild.

I am also very excited that my friend Sharon, from Marsden, is coming to join me for the weekend. She wants to buy a campervan so is testing out some to decide what she wants. She has rented one and will be arriving on Friday.

I will be back later in the week with updates on the Trust properties I visited in Herefordshire. Until then have fun, take care, stay safe and thanks for visiting.

Unexpected textiles treasures in Upton

I have just come back from my second music festival of the summer. I went to the Upton Blues Festival last weekend. I then had a couple of nights at a campsite near Malvern before joining my sister, and some other friends from one of my Facebook campervan groups, at App Fest near Tewkesbury.

The Upton Festival is a free one which takes place all around the town, similar to the Jazz Festival in Marsden. You just pay for camping and the field accommodates 7,000 campers. Katy is in there somewhere!

Both festivals were really good and there was much dancing. We were also pretty lucky with the weather as the summer has been very mixed here. I have also made new friends and seen lots more lovely vans.

Upton on Severn is a beautiful little town on the river. I visited Stourport on Severn in March and this is not far away.

There are the lovely black and white timbered buildings that this area is famous for and lots of Georgian splendour as well. The area developed through river trade and was an important trade centre in those days.There are still barges on the river today.

As it was a bit damp on Saturday I went and visited the small Tudor House Museum and I am so glad I did. This is a treasure trove of a museum, run by volunteers and has a very mixed collection, all donated by local people. It thus reflects the history of the town, but also their particular interests.

The most fascinating for me was a large lace collection, donated by a local collector. Nothing is know of its provenance but there was a wealth of machine made Stefi lace. This is made by machining on a background fabric, which is then chemically dissolved, as you would with some types of embroidery.

Such beautiful collars here. I had not heard of this type of lace before but it was very popular in the late 1800s.

There was also a recreation of a local tailor’s shop, this was full of the tools of the trade from its heyday. I love to see this type of social history preserved and it is all the more special for being of local origin.

There were some very creative displays of buttons and Haberdashery.

A wonderful museum and well with visiting if you are ever in this area. The volunteers who run it are so lovely as well and there are lots of other shops in Upton worth a visit as well.

I am on the way to the Evesham Re-enactment event, but wanted to come to Hereford to see some more Trust properties and visit more of the cute Tudor villages in the area. The forecast is mixed for the rest of the week so it may be mainly indoor visits, however I am sure I will find some lovely things to show you.

I hope you are not suffering from excessive heat, or too much rain, or any other extreme weather. It has been useful for me to try life on Katy in worse weather, as much of last year was a heat wave or very nice and sunny.

I am pleased to report that things are still working well. I will have been on the road for a month at the weekend. I still love it, on rainy days I just sit under the new lap quilt and read. I seem to have magically acquired a lot of new books, no idea how that happened 😳 🤔

I will return next week as I am cat sitting at Jacky’s. I also need to give Katy a good clean as she has been in a lot of muddy fields and she is going to be in the show field at the next festival in two weeks time.

Until then have fun, take care, stay safe and thanks for visiting.

Dunster and the delights of Devon….featuring roads I will only ever drive on once!

I do tend to base many of my holidays around National Trust properties, and although this was primarily booked for the coast and moorland, I have been making good use of my membership again.

A couple of days ago I went to Dunster Castle which has a lovely little village below it, and a very interesting history, having originally been a fortified castle from the time of William the Conqueror and survived the Civil War to now be a very impressive former family home.

There was not a huge amount of textile loveliness but I did find this wonderful quilt, made of silks and satins, probably Victorian looking at the fabric.

As well as the interior, featuring Elizabeth and plaster ceilings, Jacobean carved staircases and all the lovely things you would expect to find in a house in almost continuous occupation for 1000 years, there was an amazing garden and Riverside walk, ending at a working watermill.

I love hydrangeas, the colours and shapes are so amazing, and there were so many of them.in the castle gardens.

I have become slightly obsessed with English cottage gardens as well. All this time amongst the bougainvillea and cactus has made me really appreciate the very delicate flowers that were growing in this memorial garden in Dunster Village.

The garden was in the grounds of the old priory, next to the Tithe Barn and a fascinating dovecote dating from the 13th century that had space for 500 pigeons, all bred for eating.

Yesterday I drove across the border into Devon again, to visit the Valley of the Rocks. The coastal path runs along here and the views are amazing.

The rock formations look like ruins of castles themselves.

There are wild goats that live here, one family of which was perched on a ledge so high above the sea.

To get there I had to put on my big girl pants and drive up Porlock Hill, 25% slopes and so many sharp bends!!! I also happened to be following the coastal bus.

Katy and I did really well but I did opt for the route back across Exmoor with slightly flatter roads, stunning views and only the odd sheep and cow in the road. Since I started learning to drive in Marsden that is something I am very used to.

I only have one more day here before I go to my first festival. A few days of meeting other van people and hopefully chilling listening to blues in a sunny field.

I will be back soon with a new location, spending a couple of days in between festivals at a childhood day out location pretending I am 12 again. Until then good bye from my sunny campsite.

Have fun, take care, stay safe and thanks for visiting.

Clouds, coastlines and cottages

I have now been in Somerset for nearly a week and am very much enjoying my time here. The weather has been variable, but that has meant lots of opportunity to watch the cloud formations over the sea and moorland so I don’t mind at all.

There have also been some fabulous rainbows across the bay.

I have had various posts from friends who are melting in Spain, so am enjoying my 17 degrees!

Minehead is a very cute little town and is the start of a coastal walk, of which there are many sections. I have only done a bit so far due to the rain, but have enjoyed the sea and pebble beach views, very different to my Spanish scenes.

The harbour at Minehead has some cottages with beautiful little gardens.

Somerset is full of quintessentially English thatched cottages and today I went to Selworthy, a National Trust village.

There are four gorgeous little cottages, grouped around the village green, with gardens with some of my favourite flowers in.

Two are a tea shop and gift shop and I think the others can be rented.

There were lovely views over the valley.

The church there was also very impressive, with stunning carved pews and a ceiling full of carved angels and bosses.

There was also another of the Mother’s Union Virgen Mary banners that I have seen in so many churches.

I would love to know if the patterns were centrally supplied for these, as I have seen so many that are similar on my travels.

I also went to Porlock Weir, for another set of cute cottages and pebble beach, and one of the smallest museums I have ever visited.

This was a packed room of all things sea related.

There was some great stuff, like this set of signalling flags from the 1800s.

I am trying out a new app that allows me to make collages which are faster to upload while on the road so I hope you like the layout.

I have another four days here so there will be yet more Somerset fun to share later in the week. Until then have fun, take care, stay safe, and thanks for visiting.

England’s green and pleasant land

Well I am off on my travels again, at the first campsite of many this summer, fingers crossed. I have had an excellent if a little damp time at the Tewkesbury Medival Festival, and was lucky enough to have a dry couple of hours yesterday to pitch up here in North Somerset.

I am just outside Minehead, on the edge of the Exmoor National Park, with excellent views over the bay.

The campsite is on a very large hill with lots of walks along the coast and views of the moorland so I am looking forward to lots more outdoor adventures.

The forecast is not brilliant but I have got a great vantage point for cloud watching and it doesn’t get to be so green here without a bit of rain!

The heather is still in bloom, along with gorse and I love the way that the raindrops get caught in the spider’s webs.

It is great to be back in such a different landscape, I love Spain but this is such an amazing area, with such different foliage.

There are woods with trees that seem to have eyes, whose roots cover the walls, and walls so old you can hardly see them for the moss on them.

I was very excited on my walk this morning as I came across some beautiful Exmoor wild ponies. We saw some on Dartmoor a couple of years ago and they are amazing.

My Mum bought me an excellent book for my birthday, written by someone who spent years walking the Cairngorms. It is a really detailed piece of nature writing and is a great read while I am camping.

I have also treated myself to this book above so will enjoy sitting in the reading nook, with the new lap quilt and chilling.

There are lots of rabbits on this campsite, as well as squirrels so am looking forward to some excellent relaxation

As well as blog posts I have also set up a separate Instagram for my travels, as that will be easier more regularly, especially when I don’t have much signal. If you would like to follow that it is @KatyKangoo

I am here for two weeks and have lots of museum and heritage visits planned, as well as more of the spectacular coastline, so I will see you again soon.

Take care, have fun, stay safe and thanks for visiting.