Although it’s not something I think I will ever be able to say more than a few words in, I am learning a little Arabic while I am here. As I mentioned in a previous post, I cannot really make sense of things, but am starting to see some repeated patterns.

When I used to teach language and literacy, particularly to adults, we would talk about the importance of social signs, the things that you see around you, the labels on food and the different standardised signs that are not only common to one country, but are also worldwide. For example, I know that this means STOP. I have no idea how to say the word, but I know from the position of the sign, the colour and the shape, what it signifies.

I have been able to say some basic greetings as well, I was chatting to a young waiter in the medina a few days ago and we were talking about learning languages, and he clarified for me that you do use ‘shukran’ to say thank you, which I did think it was. I have also learnt, ‘salaam alykum’, which is hello.

As always I am picking up things from maps as I travel around. Although many of the roads here are called rue, reflecting the French influence, there are also ‘derbs’, which are the smaller streets in the medina. My favourite thing though are the ‘babs’. These are the enormous gates that I have seen in other places, but which are especially gorgeous here in Fes.

This place has the most incredible walls around the medina. The medina itself is the largest in Morocco, and one of the best preserved in the Arab world, so it has been designated a Unesco World Heritage site.

All around it are very large walls, with towers and gates. As well as the walls around the medina there are also extensive walls around the rest of the city, some which are now ruined.

Originally these would have been defensive, and are also aided by forts, such as this one Borj Nord, overlooking the medina. I walked up here a couple of days ago, unfortunately the museum that the fort now houses was closed for restoration, but I was able to walk on to the Marinad tombs that I can see from my riad, and have amazing views over the city.

My riad is very near to Bab Bou Jloud, which is known as the Blue Gate, although it is actually green on the inside. This displays the same gorgeous zellige tile work as other sites.

There are lots of gardens surrounding the walls, that are mostly very new additions to the landscape. As in all hot countries it is lovely to able to sit and listen to the sound of water, and have some shade.

One of the gardens that I found on my way into the newer parts of the city, Jnan Sibil, is a much larger one, with the most stunning public and decorative fountains. The gardens have recently been refurbished and have specific areas for different types of native plant.

As well as the walls of the old city, I also walked down to see the palace. It was built in the 1960s, and at the end of the very plain walls and guard huts you come to a plaza with the very ornate golden doors. As you know I love doors and these are some of the most gorgeous modern ones that I have seen here.

Just at the side of the palace walls is a street of restored shops, that sell bridal favours and these incredibly beautiful containers to serve them from.

You can choose glass pyramid ones, embroidered conical ones, and the bags of almond dragees all come in their own little embroidered bags or cases. They are also given as gifts for births.

Sadly the main textile and heritage museum here has been close for renovation for a while, but I did manage to visit one craft museum here, and have a good wander around the medina, so I will post about that next. There is so much amazing craftsmanship here in this country, it is just wonderful to see.

I leave Fes for Marrakesh today. I have visited that city before, 13 years ago, but have few photos from that visit, as at the time I was using slideshows in my blog posts that are no longer available. I am looking forward to being able to visit some of the places that I did last time, as well as a few new ones. Until then, as always, have fun, take care, stay safe and thanks for visiting.