Category: Scotland

Time travelling with textiles

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For me, one of the most exciting things about my recent visit to the Highland Life Folk Museum was the way that the textile heritage of the area was represented.

The museum extends for about a mile, and consists of a reconstruction of a 1730s township, and then existing buildings dating from the 1800s to the 1940s that have been moved and rebuilt.

This means that unlike a standard museum, or a Trust property, the houses and contents are a snapshot of one particular period, rather than an accumulation of artifacts over the family’s ownership of the house.

I’m not sure if all of the textiles in each house originally belonged to it  but each gives a unique insight into the life, and textiles of the era.

I have talked before about the importance of textiles in portraying aspects of daily life, and it is really obvious here. The 1730s houses are about survival, keeping the people, and animals who shared them, safe and warm, especially in the winter days.

Textiles here are functional, spinning and weaving them yourself the only way to get them, and a continual set of tasks within the community. 

One of the displays showed the multifunctionality of the original tartan cloth, garment, cloak and blanket, all in one handy length.

As life starts to get less pressured, and as job roles diversify, you have the separate businesses devoted to clothing.These buildings originally stood in the nearby town of Newtonmore.

The tailors and dressmakers, aided by the invention of the sewing machine. The idea of having lots of clothes for different purposes,  the ability to own more than one of things, and the luxury of not having to make it yourself.

Clothing as status, the well tailored tweed suit, the modern kilt in clan tartans, all things uniquely associated with Scotland, and exported all over the world.

In the later period houses, those of the leisure classes, with time to spend on the ‘decorative arts’, textiles to show your skill, to make your home look nice.

An endless succession of tablecloths, tray covers, anti maccassars, fire screens and cushions. All created in the home with materials bought from specialist suppliers. A way to pass time with friends, or while listening to the radio.

It was marvellous place to visit, and one of my very favourite ways to spend the day. I was also exceptionally lucky that the weather was gorgeous, and the scenery stunning. Loved the three varieties of Highland Cow, just enjoying the sun and their grass.

I ended the day at a new aire, in Aberfeldy, just sitting watching the clouds as usual, and listening to the birds flying over the fields.

I have a few more posts to share with you about Scotland, it seems such a long time ago that I left, although it’s only a week. Hopefully,  good WiFi allowing, I can share more next week, as I am making my way to the final few campsites of this trip.

In the meantime, have fun, take care, stay safe and thanks for visiting.

Lots and lots of locks and lochs!

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I have wanted to visit the Cairngorms for a very long time, and it is definitely an area to return to as I only had a glimpse at its beauty.

The trip from Skye westwards took me first to Fort Augustus, at the end of Loch Ness. I had been there before, briefly with Jacky two years ago, but wanted to revisit, partly to stay at a new aire just outside the town.

The journey was so beautiful, passing through Glenshiel and past Loch Cluanie.

Fort Augustus is famous for being the other end of the Caledonian Canal, I visited Neptune’s Staircase a couple of weeks ago, and here are the five locks that complete the journey, allowing boats to enter Loch Ness, and travel to Inverness and the sea.

There is a great information centre about the canal, and also lots of lovely shops and cafés. I was lucky enough to see another group of boats go through, both the locks and the swing bridge into Loch Ness.

If you look at the map of Scotland, this is where it nearly spilts in half, a fault line known as the Great Glen. The canals allowed ships to cross Scotland without having to follow the often dangerous northern coastline.

This was an enormous undertaking, these canals were dug by hand and it took 19 years to complete, overseen by Thomas Telford. There are a total of 29 locks along outside length. It is just amazing that this has been preserved and restored so it can still be used.

I stayed overnight at the very nice Loch Ness caravan park. Like many aires this has been set up by a farming family and is a quiet site, a short walk from the town.

I really enjoy supporting small businesses like these, and it has been great to have so many options in Scotland, as well as the Caravan and Camping Club sites.

The following day I went over to the edge of the Cairngorm National Park, with a quick stop at Aviemore for supplies. I ended up at the Rothiemurchus Estate.

The estate offers lots of different activities, such as bike hire, horse riding, fishing, but also has brilliant hiking trails.

It was a beautiful sunny day, so I did 8km circular route to Loch an Eilein, passing Loch Mor with so many water lilies, and through stunning forests and heathland. 

There were also deer on the estate, a little far away for good photos.

Despite all my walks, I still haven’t seen a single red squirrel, the only disappointment about my trip to Scotland! Lots signs saying look out for them, but none to be seen 😔

I had a choice of aires and park ups in this area, because it was such a beautiful evening, I opted for staying at the Loch Insh watersports centre. 

It was such a lovely way to end such a fantastic day, sitting with a G and T in the sun, watching the wild swimmers in the loch.

My final day in the area I will tell you about next time, as I need a whole post to share all the things at one of my favourite types of museum, the open air Highland Life Folk Museum. 

I am now in my last campsite in Scotland, I can’t believe I have been here for 6 weeks. It is the most beautiful place, and I will have to come back. I also can’t believe this is my fourth September of not having to deal with the start of term 🙃 Still so, so lucky to be living this life!

Until next time, have fun, take care, stay safe and thanks for visiting.

Seeing rainbows

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This is my last day on the Isle of Skye. I have been staying at a wonderful campsite, right next to the Cuillin mountains, called Sligachan.

I spotted this site last time we were here, two years ago and decided to stay, which was a great choice. We are right next to Sligachan Bridge and these amazing mountains, so I have had a chance to do lots of arty photos.  

Not only is it a fabulous location, the staff are so lovely and friendly and helpful. We have had the tail end of a hurricane mid week, so although I pitched my tent when I arrived, I took it down the following day, as there were 40mph winds forecast.  They were fine with me staying in the van.

It has been a fantastic location for rainbows, I have never seen so many in one place. There must be something about the mountains behind the site, and the loch in front, that makes it the perfect place.

The weather has been mixed, but enough sunny days to go and explore, and some gorgeous sunrises and sunsets as well.

Last time Jacky and I came we did all the famous stuff on Skye, so I have spent my time just exploring the less visited parts in the north of the island.

I have been out to Portnalong, to Carbost, Uig and had a quick visit to the capital, Portree.

I visited an iron age broch, with views over Oransay, and the Skye Museum of Island Life.

The museum is located in a more remote part of the island, 6 miles along a bumpy single track road, and really gives you a sense of how cut off people were living there. There are a mix of preserved, and reconstructed houses of crofters.

Even now, with a car, it is trek to get there, but there are still lots of houses there, with amazing views over the cliffs. One of the most significant pieces of information was that children living in these crofts would usually not visit Portree, a 25 mile walk, until they were 12, and old enough to cope with the journey. 

As well as the artefacts, including some great textiles, there were photos and archive film of people living there in the 1930s, which was the best bit. All textiles were made at home, from flax grown in the croft, and wool from their sheep.

This croft was home to a family with 10 children, accommodated in two box beds, with their parents in a small bed off the living room.

A fantastic place, and well worth visiting for a taste of real Skye life.

I have also been following a YouTube channel called, ‘Living  the Skye Life’, run by an artist and musician, Sarah and Willie, who relocated here two years ago. It is a really interesting exploration of 21st century life here, and gave me lots of ideas of different places to explore.

Tomorrow I leave to go west, I am heading for the Cairngorms, which I am very excited about. I have some park ups for the next few nights, and will hopefully be visiting more canals!

Until next time, have fun, take care, stay safe, and thanks for visiting.

Gorgeous Glencoe

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Glencoe is justifiably famous as being one of the most stunning places in Scotland.  As you drive up the A82, past the countless peaks, and waterfalls streaming down the sides of the, you just marvel at the fact that this little slice of geology is there for us all to enjoy. 

And there are a lot of people here, which has meant that parking has been busy, so I have mainly been going to the quieter places around the valley to walk.

The weather was generally very good, better than forecast, and I had some stunning drives in the sun. Every time I go somewhere in Scotland I think, ‘this is the most beautiful place I have ever seen’. Then half an hour later, there is something equally, or more beautiful.

My first day of exploring took me to Glen Lochan, only 8 minutes drive from my campsite. This small loch, set in woodland has three different trails around it, so I completed all of the lochside and mountain ones, and part of the forest one.

I was lucky to be there to catch the reflections of the clouds on the still loch, with the mountain backdrop. Just stunning and a memory that will stay with me for a long time.

That afternoon I went to the Glencoe Visitor Centre, right next to my campsite.  As well as the amazing views they have some really good interpretation of the area, including the history of mountaineering, and mountain rescue.

There is also a reconstruction of an 18th century turf house, along with a video showing all the techniques used. It is really interesting and the setting just makes it.

I visited another waterfall later in the week, another Grey Mare’s, but this one was a mere 10 minutes walk, through a wonderful, damp,  green forest, which my knees appreciated 😀

My last day was gorgeously sunny, so I decided to drive to Glenfinnan, hoping to see the monument and viaduct, but again couldn’t get parked.

It was an amazing drive though and on the way back I stopped at Corpach, a little village with a canal and views of Ben Nevis.

That was brilliant, but even better was to come, as a short drive away is Neptune’s Staircase.  This is a series of eight locks on the  Caledonian Canal. 

Exciting enough, for me, but even better that eight sailing ships, from a range of places like Denmark and Norway, were going through from the top lock.

If you are a regular reader you’ll know how much I love canals, and this was definitely a highlight of the week.

I have now moved on to Skye. Two years ago my sister and I visited, as part of a longer trip where we also went to the Outer Hebrides.  I loved Skye so much, that I wanted to come back for longer.

Yesterday was amazing, and I will share that with you in the next post. I am at a campsite with fabulous views of the Cuillin mountains, or they were fabulous yesterday 😆 Today we are experiencing the tail end of Hurricane Ernesto, like most of the UK. I’m sure the mountains are still there somewhere!

So I’m in the van, having a day in reading and stitching,  but the local sheep aren’t bothered at all.

See you soon, for more of Skye. Have fun, take care, stay safe and thanks for visiting.

Watching clouds

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I have spent so much of this trip watching clouds. Partly because they are so fascinating, and to me one of the best things about a life lived mainly outdoors.

Culzean Castle was an amazing place for cloud watching, and the sunsets over Arran were just beautiful.

I also cloud watch so I can predict weather, I have been so lucky with this trip to Scotland, only a few really wet days, and there is something very magical about watching the clouds over the mountains after it has rained, or the joy of waking up to blue skies after a wet day.

So I don’t mind the rain at all, after all Scotland would be nothing without its lochs and rivers.

The grounds of Culzean Castle were extensive, and I had some excellent walks around the grounds. The gardens are so lovely and lush, quite tropical in their appearance. 

My favourite walk was the one along the rocky coastline, with more views of Arran and Ailsa Craig.

I also had a guided tour of the castle, which was very much a home built to impress visitors.  All these weapons were bought for the entrance hall displays.

After a great five days at Culzean I headed north to Sue’s house, just above Loch Lomond,  taking the scenic route via the coast.  I stopped at Gourock for a picnic, at the Lyles Hill viewpoint, with a panorama across the Clyde. 

It was only a quick visit this time, just two nights, but another old friend from Polytechnic was there as well, who I hadn’t seen for 5 years, so that was great. It is always a joy to stay with Sue, not only is the place amazing,  but she is also an excellent host.

We just had time for one trip, to the west coast to Crinan, where a canal was built in the 1700s to connect the lochs and give easy access to  the sea by Jura.

Gorgeous views again, a very different landscape to that around Loch Lomond. 

Then it was time to head north again, with a quick stop in Oban for supplies, and to visit McCaig’s Tower, a coliseum like structure, with views over Oban to the Isle of Mull, and more fabulous clouds!

I am now at the very iconic, and very famous Glencoe, and this is the view from my pitch. I have already had some great walks,  which I will tell you about in the next post.

Today is a rest day, it has rained a lot overnight, and this morning, so while I have been snug and dry in Katy, there have been lots of people packing up in the wet, poor things. This site is used a lot by people touring with tiny tents, but there are a couple of shelters for them to cook in and hang clothes.

I will be back soon, so until then, have fun, take care, stay safe and thanks for visiting.

Camping at the castle

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I have been lucky enough to camp at many castles in my time as a re-enactor. There is something very special about waking up within the ancient walls, and wondering about all the people that have previously been there.

This campsite is not actually in the castle though, but in the grounds. I am now at Culzean Castle on the West Coast of Scotland again, after having said goodbye to my sister last weekend.

The site is small and absolutely gorgeous, located with sea views across to Arran, and Ailsa Craig, and I am just spending so much time looking at the views and watching the clouds over Arran.

Jacky and I had a beautiful last park up at Craig’s Croft Aire, near Castle Douglas, where we saw lots of red kites, and other birds. Sadly no red squirrels yet, despite going up to their hide. They are clearly very shy.

We had been to a very remote nature reserve for the afternoon after leaving the Mull of Galloway, one near an amazing aquaduct called the Big Water of Fleet.

I had wanted to go there since I saw it on someone’s You Tube channel. It was an excellent walk across the structure, with stunning views. I feel like I am just going to keep saying that in every blog post, but it is so true.

We then moved on to a campsite for the final four days together.  It was located in the very cute little town of Moffat, just off the M74, and again had some wonderful views.

We had a very nice time there with two bbqs, two delicious wood fired pizzas, and lots of sitting staring at the blue sky. We have been so lucky with the weather  virtually no rain at all.

Ryan, my sister’s dog, really enjoyed his holiday, he loves being in the van.

Our first day, we just went on a short  riverside walk, part of the Annandale Trail. 

On day two, it was an epic trek up to Grey Mare’s Tail waterfall. It is about 20 mins from Moffatt, in a beautiful valley.

The guidance says that this is only a 5km walk, however it felt like twice that as the ascent is very steep. You can just about see Jacky’s van in the top right photo above to show how high we were, and that was only halfway.

Once at the top it is a long walk to Loch Skean  but well worth it when you get there. Just quintessential Scottish beauty.

Our knees needed a rest the following day, so it was just a little 5km on the flat, around Lochmaben Nature Reserve. 

After Jacky went back to Worcester, I had a quiet weekend doing my vanlife chores, reading, and visiting the little local museum. As always there was a plethora of interesting things including these lovely old promotional posters, and some textile treasures.

I am at Culzean for the rest of this week, and have already explored some of the castle grounds, there is a country park attached so there is a lot to see. I will share that all with you next time.

Then I am off to spend the weekend with my friend Sue, who recently visited me in Spain, at her house in Scotland.  Another old frend is coming too, so we shall have an excellent time catching up.

Then it is further north, to my next campsite at one of the most iconic Scottish locations. There will be some stunning views from there as well 😉

Until next time, have fun, take care, stay safe and thanks for visiting.

The delights and glories of Dumfries and Galloway

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I am currently sat at one of my most unusual park ups, watching the clouds around the lighthouse at the Mull of Galloway. This is the most southerly point of Scotland, and is our fifth park up.

My last day in the Lake District was a brilliant walk on St Bees Head, with views over to the Isle of Man and the Scottish coast. 

The following day I was there, meeting my sister for a 10 day adventure in this gorgeous area of Scotland. 

This is a little visited part of the country, people tend to head up to the better known parts of Loch Lomond and Skye, where we went a couple of years ago, and I will be returning to soon. However we had heard how lovely it was, and it is stunning. Forests and beaches and cute little towns, we love it.

Our first trip was to Rockcliffe, a small village with brilliant views of the peninsulas. Such gorgeous scenery and so many flowers.

We then went to the Galloway Forest, we have used two of the forest Park ups, under the Stay the Night scheme. This is where you can park in their car parks for £7 a night.

The first was at Dalbeattie, and the second at the end of Raider’s Road, a 9 mile drive through the forest with a stop off at the beautiful Otters Pools. Sadly no otters, but a gorgeous place.

We also had a little wander around Loch Ken.

Our other park ups have been a community one, and an animal sanctuary and rewinding project called Frugaldom. Jacky was very excited as she saw a badger.

The following morning we went to feed some deer at a small refuge  that was brilliant. They were so cute and friendly. 

We visited St Ninian’s Cave as well, the beach is full of such a variety of pebbles, they are fascinating.

The Mull of Galloway lighthouse is now owned by the community, as it is operated remotely, and they have a small exhibition including some excellent photography.  I bought a postcard of the lighthouse and dawn clouds one for my van, such an incredible sky!

We have been so lucky with the weather, look at these amazing blues.

There have been virtually no midges either, so that has been great. We are off to our last park up tonight, then on to a campsite for 4 nights for a bit of luxury. 

Jacky will then go south to Northumberland then home, while I continue to the north of Dumfries and Galloway for more adventures.

So I will see you all soon with more Scottish loveliness.  Until then, have fun, take care  stay safe and thanks for visiting.

A land of lochs

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I spent last week in Scotland, a wonderful place and one that I am so looking forward to returning to this summer. My Instagram feed is full of beautiful views of the country, and it was amazing to be there, especially after a month in Morocco. There is such a huge contrast between the two places, and it was strange being surrounded by so much water, after a month of desert views and palm trees.

I was visiting one of my closest friends. Sue and I met over forty years ago, in the first week at Huddersfield Polytechnic. We have survived motherhood, teaching, and now retirement together and it was brilliant to be able to spend time catching up with her.

She came out to Spain last May to see me, and will be coming again this May with another friend from Polytechnic. Aside from the wonders of travel, the best bit of retirement is being able to spend time with my friends all over the world 😉

Sue has lived in Scotland for the past few years, after many years in Yorkshire, and she has the most gorgeous cottage with views of the mountains. Just look at these! I spent so much time just sitting watching the sun and the clouds from the lounge windows.

There were amazing sunsets as well. I have missed my Spanish sunsets.

We had quite a busy week, even though I was only there for three full days, and I met lots of her friends and neighbours as well as exploring the area a bit more. She lives not far from Loch Lomond and so the countryside is stunning.

We went to Inverarary for lunch one day, and then on to a heritage property, the Auchindrain township.

This is a set of smallholdings, set in the valley just up from Inverary, and it has such a beautiful feel to it. You can really get a sense of what life was like there, getting water from the small burn that runs through it, and the farming that sustained the inhabitants. The township was inhabited from the late 1700s until the 1940s, and although restoration work is ongoing, nature is reclaiming some of the buildings.

It seems very fitting that the local wood, stone and heather was used to build these dwellings, and they are now decaying in a very beautiful way, being covered in mosses and lichens.

We also had a quick visit to Oban, stopping off at Loch Etive on the way for lunch.

I plan to come back here for longer in the summer, as I have about six weeks in Scotland planned between the end of July and September. I can’t believe I will be driving Katy on these roads, so excited!

I loved Scotland when I went two years ago with my sister Jacky, and am going back to Skye as well as meeting with her in the border area early on in the trip.

I also visited St Conan’s Kirk, on the shores of Loch Awe. Although the church looks really old, it was only finally completed in 1930, and was a labour of love for Walter Douglas Campbell, who had bought an island and built a house nearby.

It is such a beautiful build, with its interior arches, mix of architectural styles and Gaelic inspired design everywhere.

I love these two stained glass windows, with the beautifully Arts and Crafts inspired armour designs on the angels.

A quick trip back to Ellen’s, for a quiet weekend, and I am now in Marsden in Yorkshire, where I used to live. I am cat and house sitting again, as I did last year. This time thankfully without the heavy snow that meant Katy and I couldn’t leave the village and go camping as planned.

I will be here for the next two weeks with a very cute and furry cat Frankie. I am also spending time catching up with my friends and ex-colleagues here, cuddling new babies, and taking a few trips down memory lane on walks. I also will be finally posting about my visit to Cordoba in November so come back soon for that.

Until then I hope that you have fun, take care, stay safe and thanks for visiting.