Month: November 2024

A self-taught seamstress

stitchesoftime1 Comment

Like many women my age, I did actually have needlework lessons at school. Good old-fashioned needlework, not textiles or design but reading a pattern, doing it all properly with tailors tacks and matching notches. I actually hated it, and after the compulsory two years was very thankful to give it up, one completed apron for cookery, and an unfinished corduroy skirt, (this was the 1970s after all!), later. I did do cookery, at both O and A level, which I loved, and never regretted not doing more needlework, thinking when would I ever need it?

Of course fast forward 35 years, making costumes for medieval re-enactment, and then Steampunk, and I’m really wishing I knew more. All that stuff about adjusting patterns, FBAs, understitching, how do make a successful toile, all of that has been learnt the hard way over the years. I have had some great mentors, in the women from my medieval group, and I loved the dress making days that we used to have, but for the rest, thank goodness for the internet!

I would love to do an in person dressmaking course someday, however my itinerant lifestyle means that is difficult, but there are so many good resources out there now. Sometimes nothing beats human interaction through, especially when you are trying to do fittings on yourself 😉

I am also developing my skills at Barbie couture, a whole different set is needed to work at such a small scale, and have learnt so much in the past few years, and even more in the past couple of weeks. I have been very inspired by all of the wonderful creators that I follow on Instagram. Some of them post process videos as well, which is really useful, as I can follow what they are doing.

One of my favourites is Grace Panisara She makes the most incredible beaded gowns, many replicas of ones worn in real life by pageant participants. The skill of this seamstress is amazing, and I can only hope that someday I can do something half as wonderful as this. This picture below is from her Instagram, just look at this stunning work!

Another favourite is Hoanganhkhoi whose tailored work with reproductions of all of the wonderful Dior creations is beyond belief. I have been struggling with just a few little patterns pieces and some of the jackets have 30 pieces in them! He posts videos of his makes so do go take a look and be amazed.

I have been getting lots of practise though, with the latest fundraiser, and am really pleased with what I have made. There are six outfits in total, a holiday wardrobe to see Barbie through the festive season ahead!

First make was this Christmas Day dress. I knew the fabric wasn’t going to be brilliant to work with, as it was so thick, but really wanted to use it as I had the Poinsettia flower already in my stash and thought it would go really well. Suffice to say the sleeves were a challenge to sew. I ended up hand stitching them, and supporting the while thing with a pen in the armhole while I did that, which worked well.

That material, and the black lace for the evening dress below, had come from a bag given to me by a friend, Vivien, from sewing group here. I really wanted to use the lace, as it feels very Spanish mantilla, so layered it over some dark gold, which may well be something that Kerry gave me, it certainly looks like one of her underdresses from re-enactment.

The blue outfit is another use of scraps, this was left over from when I made my friend Sarah’s wedding dress, they had a Lord of the Rings inspired celebration, and I have posted about making that dress here. This is the first pant suit I have made and it was great, so will do this one again.

It is lovely to be able use up so much that has memories attached to it. This cream fabric is left over from one of the first outfits I made for Ellen for re-enactment, a mere 20 something years ago.

Some of the fabric is stuff I have bought, particularly the lovely silks used in this purple dress, but the organza I have used for the overlay was a gift from someone.

This trouser suit also come from the bag from Vivien, and the silver for the knitted top was given to me by Linda, from the knitting group here.

I have found an amazing source of free Barbie knitting patterns here. Thanks to Lisa for thousands of patterns in multiple languages. This boob tube is an adaptation of pattern no 95, as I didn’t have enough yarn to do a collared version, but I love it.

Initially I was really struggling with zig zagging the pieces after I’d cut them out, to stop fraying, and then just before outfit number 5, I realised that if I traced them with tailors’ chalk, did the zig zagging as a single piece of fabric, then cut them it might be easier… and it was, so much easier. Wish I’d thought of that two weeks ago 😉

I am continuing with making outfits, these will just be for me so I can make them a little more complex and fragile, I try to just use single press studs, hooks or velcro for ones which will go to children, but can bead to my hearts content here and try and do some high fashion stuff. I have been stocking up on a few new things from the local Merca China shops here, they have wonderful selections of beads and bling.

I also realised that these little organza gift bags, which you can buy here in packs of 4 for a euro, will be great for embellishments on gowns. You actually get quite a lot of fabric in each one, so I am experimenting with ruffles for this red gown below.

I mainly use the patterns that I bought a few years ago, from Gail’s doll patterns on Etsy. I bought two 1960s ones, and a 1980s and there are loads of options in each pattern. My favourite patterns are the ones without arms as they are so much easier, but there are some nice coats and jackets with arms and body cut as one piece.

So if you need me in the next few weeks I will be in my atelier, faffing about with tiny bits of fabric and beads! That, my other Christmas crafting, and a new writing course with the WEA, will keep me amused for the next few weeks. Much as I love my travel adventures, I am very much enjoy time in the house with the sewing machine, although the bed still feels very big 😉

Until next time, when I shall return to posting about the summer travels, enjoy whatever you are doing. Have fun, take care, stay safe and thanks for visiting.

Skill and scale

stitchesoftime2 Comments

The textile treasure that was my last trip out in Scotland was The Great Tapestry of Scotland, now sited in Galashiels, about an hour away from my Dunbar campsite, a beautiful drive through pine forests and small towns. I hadn’t actually heard of the tapestry before, although it was completed in 2013, but found it by accident while looking for something else on Google Maps. Much of my planning is like that, either I just explore an area to visit on Google maps and pin things in advance, or I am inspired by other’s posts on Instagram.

Although the tapestry was completed in 2013, it went on tour, and so was not in its present location, in a purpose built exhibition centre, until 2021. It is also not a tapestry, but in the great tradition of other tapestries, such as the famous Bayeux one, it is referred to as a tapestry, rather than a crewel work embroidery. I like to think that is has all the elements of a tapestry, as it is a textile based weaving in of Scotland’s history, told over 160 stitched panels, all created by over 1,000 volunteer stitchers, whose names are recorded at the entrance to the exhibition.

As I was going through the very many photos I took, trying to edit them down for this post, and trying to think of what title I would give it, the words, ‘skill and scale’, came into my mind. The sheer scale of this community stitching project is immense, as those 1,000 stitchers came from all across Scotland, some working in groups, and some alone. Therefore there was a huge logistical task in sending out all the materials for each panel, and in passing the work between stitchers.

Not all of the stitchers were experienced, so many had to learn new skills. Some were very used to other methods of working, such as cross stitch, or silk embroidery, but not to crewel work, done in wool on linen. Although the stitchers were given panels that already had the outline drawings, done by community artist Andrew Crummy, they had to decide how to fill in the blanks and interpret flowers, natural landscapes, fish, horse armour and stone work, as well as a wide variety of textiles.

I love this stitched fish, such amazing detail and colour.

I also got to see my only red squirrels in all seven weeks in Scotland! Despite my best efforts, and many visits to pine forests, they kept eluding me.

I have selected a few panels to share with you, there are so many I just didn’t have space to include, and also I would strongly encourage you to go and see it for yourself, it is amazing. It was lovely for me to see things represented that I already knew about, places that I had visited, such as Rennie Mackintosh’s design work, and John Muir.

I was also amused to see a panel representing the start of the Ordnance Survey mapping, which was inspired by the army’s need to find the fleeing Scots after the Jacobite Rebellion. Some years ago I read, and thoroughly enjoyed, (much to my children’s bewilderment), the story of how the Ordnance Survey map was created, written by Rachel Hewitt.

There was of course a panel on Mary, Queen of Scots, my ever present muse. What I particularly loved about her panel was that she is portrayed with her stitching, and in the borders are many of the pieces she stitched while with Bess of Hardwick.

Some of these are said to have hidden meanings, such as the cat and mouse picture, which is said to portray Elizabeth 1st as a ginger cat, toying with poor Mary mouse while she decides what her fate will be.

There were also representations of other royalty, and I loved the skills of the stitchers at representing them and their clothes with such detail.

There were also some beautiful panels on natural history, and early archaeological finds.

My favourite panels were the ones representing Scotland’s textile heritage, a dazzling array of different embroidery techniques used to portray the weaving, knitting, production of Paisley shawls, and Fair Isle jumpers. The skills of the stitchers in these panels are astounding.

I also loved the different design elements, in representing complex themes, such as Scotland’s involvement in India. This panel is such a beautiful piece of art.

I had visited my friends who moved to near Dundee earlier in the trip, and they told me all about the 3 Js that Dundee is famous for, journalism, jute and jam.

I haven’t done any embroidery for a long time, but this exhibition has definitely inspired me. I bought the book about the making of the panels as well, and loved reading about all the people involved. It just spoke so much to me, and it is brilliant knowing that their names are recorded. Thank you to all involved, it is an amazing piece of textile art.

By coincidence I have just finished reading a book that I have had on my shelf for a long time, by an author who writes so wonderful about historic textiles. This is the fictionalised account of how one of my favourite actual tapestries, The Lady and The Unicorn series, was made, and is an excellent read if you like lots of detail about historical textiles, as you know I do. I have yet to visit the tapestries in real life, however the book brought back lots of memories of my visit to Abusson in France in May, a great centre of tapestry making, and an excellent museum.

Although there has been no embroidery done here, there has been a whole week of intensive work in the atelier, and I am pleased to report that six couture outfits have been made for Barbie. I have so enjoyed this, despite the odd complexity of working at that scale, and have definitely developed my skills this week.

I will post about them next, before I return to telling you about the English part of the summer travels and our recent trips. We have been very fortunate to avoid the worst of the storms and floods, but as you may know, there has been dreadful devastation and loss of life in Spain, so the local communities here have been trying to help out with donations.

I hope that you are all ok wherever you are, and enjoying life. I will be back as soon as possible, in between my hectic creating schedule 😉 Why does Christmas always seem to come a month too soon, even though I start stitching for it in January?

Have fun, take care, stay safe and thanks for visiting.