Architectural gems

As you may have gathered I love architecture and interior design. I find it endlessly fascinating the way that we build differently in different places, how e make use of local material, and how and why we decorate. I wonder about where our influences come from, and how those travel across time and countries. Part of the reason for coming to Morocco was to see more of the very distinctive architecture here, which is such a feature of so many wonderful places in Spain as well.

I chose my current hotel in Casablanca almost exclusively on it decorative style. I did also look at budget and location, but it was too good to pass up the opportunity of staying somewhere that looks like a combination of all of the lovely places that I have visited.

The Moroccan House Hotel does not look like an architectural gem from the outside. Especially as today Casablanca is 14 degrees, dull and wet, such a contrast to all the blue sky pictures I have been posting.

So, I have taken the opportunity to have a relaxing day in, reading and writing, and hopefully will resume adventures tomorrow. Yesterday was a long day of travelling, through some amazing countryside.

It had me wondering whether the incredible decoration in countries like Morocco, and many others that have quite harsh landscapes, is a direct contrast to what is outside. I know that not all of Morocco is desert, but yesterday there were miles of the same colours, pale browns, oranges and yellows of the earth with the little bits of green of the trees and crops.

You come into the hotel through an impressive door though, straight into the extravagantly tiled lobby.

The middle of the upper floors has a central courtyard, as traditional riads do, with the rooms arranged around this. Suspended in this is a huge hanging lamp, and all around are plasterwork friezes.

I had breakfast here today, this is the mezzanine restaurant, overlooking the hotel lobby. I can’t get over the detail that is in every part of the place, the pillars, the ceilings, such an amazing work of art.

Even my room has the same level of detail, with a stunning plasterwork frieze, so much nicer than boring British coving! I love the room doors as well.

Sadly I only have a very ordinary bathroom, no fully tiled hamman, though there is one in the hotel. That would have been amazing.

Part of the reason for choosing Casablanca as one of my stops was that it has a lot of wonderful Art Deco architecture, so that is on the itinerary for when the sun comes back out.

People often ask me what I do when I travel for so long. It depends on the location, rural ones I spend way too long looking at the clouds 😉 and city ones I spend so much time just wandering, and looking up. It is very important to look up as otherwise you miss so much amazing architecture.

Fingers crossed the forecast will be right, and I will return in a few days with lots of 1920s loveliness for you. Until then have fun, take care, stay safe and thanks for visiting.

Exploring Essouria

Essouria is a city people visit for lots of reasons, for me it was reading about it as a laid back seaside resort, and I thought it would be lovely to spend some time at a smaller place before going on to the bigger cities.

I will end my time in Morocco in Marrakesh, so am appreciating the calm of this little city. As I mentioned in my last post, it is very quiet compared to Agadir, and very small. I walked from the medina to the other end of the beach, almost at the edge of the city, in about 45 minutes the other day.

The medina is also a good one for novice explorers to Morocco, as it is small and easy to navigate, being more of a grid layout than others. I remember getting very lost in the one in Marrakesh when I visited 13 years ago, whereas this is easy to find your way around, probably as the medina is right next to the port. You know you can’t go wrong if you follow the seagulls! There are lots of open areas and gardens, showing the French influence on the architecture.

As I mentioned in my last post, the medina is surrounded by high walls, which have been restored, with gates or Babs. Most have their cannons still situated with them, from when Essouria, or Mogador as it was formerly known, had to defend itself.

I went down to the port area one day, the fish market is really fascinating to see, so many varieties caught locally. There is also the fortified tower with Spanish guns, used against the French in the late 1700s, and the wall ramparts which have been used in the Game of Thrones series.

As well as the seagulls hoping for scraps from the fish market, there are lots of cats. I know people often worry about stray animals in Morocco, but the ones that I have seen here in the cities look very well fed and healthy, lots seem to live at shops or in restaurants. This little cat was having a lovely sleep in the sun in the medina yesterday.

There are lots of tourist shops and stalls in the medina, but also just lots of ordinary market areas, particularly at the back where I am staying, which is a less touristy area. There is so much fresh fruit here, and loads of lovely bread and sweet things. I have been very good and resisted the temptation to buy any textiles, although there are some gorgeous bags. There are also beautiful ceramics, and lots of leather items.

I have allowed myself unlimited photos of doors, and windows, though, as they take up no space in the luggage 😉 As in Cyprus last year, blue is the top choice of door colour here.

The area that I am staying in is the textile district, and there are still some traditional weavers here in the street where the dar is. They stretch their threads along the length of the street, which is really interesting to watch.

I was very excited today as, diverting off to take another door photo, I found an embroidery shop! I managed to have a conversation with the owner in French and he explained that these are rayon threads used in machine embroidery. I had to buy three in my favourite colours and have plans for another Moroccan inspired stitchery for Katy. It was hard to chose from all the gorgeousness here.

The part of the medina at the back, nearest the ramparts is undergoing extensive renovation, they are demolishing many of the old buildings so it will be interesting to see what replaces them. I met my host yesterday morning, Paolo, the owner of Dar 91, and we had a really interesting talk about Essouria as a tourist resort.

He told me that government are helping with renovation, hoping to bring more tourists into the town, which links with what I said in the last post. The house next door will be renovated soon, and the local owner has moved out while that is done, but she will move back into her house afterwards.

Fun fact about Morocco, most of the, I assume phone towers, have been decorated to look like palm trees. I noticed this firstly in Agadir, and here are some right outside the medina.

I am spending time every day writing my novel as well, I am determined to finish it this year. It will have taken three years, but I have been really enjoying the research and the writing courses that I have taken in that time as well. I am in no real hurry but I have so many ideas for more books, I need to get this one done before I can move on. I am loving having the intellectual challenge, especially as this half of the book has involved much more research about unknown topics.

I am off to Casablanca tomorrow, which will be very different. Another bus ride ahead, this time for 6 hours, so am really looking forward to that. So I will see you in a few days. Have fun, take care, stay safe and thanks for visiting.

Travel broadens the mind, and widens the vocabulary

One of the things that I love about travel is getting to know more about other languages. On my visits to China with work some years ago I attempted to learn some Chinese, both written and spoken. It was one of the most difficult languages I have encountered, as it is so different to English, in structure and in the way sounds are represented. I used to use Chinese as an example with my language and literacy students when I was teaching, as they often worked with Chinese speakers who were trying to learn English.

Since I retired I have been learning Spanish, and am really enjoying my new confidence with the language after two and half years of formal learning, and talking to Spanish friends. I was lucky enough to learn French from the age of 7 to 16, and although I haven’t used it much, I could remember enough to hold short conversations on my recent trip through France.

I am now here in Morocco, at Agadir to be exact, at the start of an exciting month in this beautiful country. I have visited before, 13 years ago, when I spent February half term with my Mum and Jake in Marrakesh and loved it. Although much of Moroccan culture is very familiar to me because of the Moorish influences in Spain, and they even have the same company running the buses, I have been excited to see signs in three languages everywhere here.

I am familiar with Arabic, as Yorkshire is very multicultural, and there were many signs written in Arabic in local towns. Many of my students spoke Arabic as well, or could read it, as it is the language of the Koran/Quran. I thought this third language must be Berber, and it is. This is Tifnagh, the Berber alphabet, and according to this website, there are over 300 Berber dialects.

I find this alphabet absolutely fascinating, it looks so different to other scripts that I have come across. It reminds me a little of the sorts of things that you see as created languages in Sci fi media, yet is thousands of years old. I have spent my couple of days in Agadir trying to relate this new language to what I know, not that I am attempting to speak it!

My French is also coming in very useful, as will my Spanish as I travel further north, as both countries had influence over Morocco at various times. Morocco is one of the most multi-lingual countries in the world, discounting others who are multilingual through migration, and I am really enjoying talking to people here in both of my other languages. I try and avoid English as much as possible when travelling if I can as I think it is nice to be able to talk to people in their languages, and it’s great practise for me!

The city is a popular tourist resort, with miles of beautiful beaches with gorgeous, and expensive looking hotels. I had a lovely wander down to the beach on the first day, it was 26 degrees that day, on the 1st February, so a paddle was very welcome.

I am staying at a hotel about 20 minutes walk from the beach, the Hotel Sindibad, which overlooks one of the city squares. There are lots of hotels and restaurants in this area, and I have a little balcony where I have been sitting watching people below, which is especially nice at night . I have a choice of two lovely comfy beds 😉

The city is mostly modern, as the result of devastating earthquake in 1960, when most of the city was destroyed, and 1/3 of the citizens killed. The area where I am staying, Talborjt, was very badly hit. It is very sobering to read about the destruction of the city, walking around it now, you would not realise that there had been this level of trauma here.

Although the city is new, there is lots of evidence of traditional architectural influences, as well as modern, especially at the mosques. If you are a regular here you will know how much I love Islamic art and decoration, and I’m sure I’m going to see so many lovely things during my time here in Morocco.

I visited this lovely cool garden today, the entrance is clearly inspired by Berber architecture, although it was only opened in 1992. The stonework is just beautiful.

I move on tomorrow, just a couple of hours up the coast, to Essouria for 5 nights, which will be my first experience of Moroccan bus travel. I flew into Agadir, which is in the south of the country, from Manchester, as I wanted to explore as much of the country as possible in my time here. In total I will be visiting 6 cities, so look forward to sharing them all with you. I am really looking forward to the train travel as well, even though I love driving, I still get so excited using trains 😉

I hope you are all enjoying your week, have fun, take care, stay safe and thanks for visiting.